Violette Top by Gold and Skye Patterns
It needs a press, but it’s done!
A month ago I wrote about a last minute sewing project meant for a pub trip the next day. Today, I finished it. Unfortunately, I'll probably never wear it.
Part of the reason it took so long was because I realised that I wouldn't like the final product as soon as I tried it on before doing the topstitching. It doesn't fit in a way that feels comfortable to me. The armholes are too low, revealing more than I'm used to, and the bust is too loose, making it impossible to bend over without a wardrobe malfunction. I could probably get away with wearing it with a t-shirt, but I wont be wearing it alone. Still, the process was a learning experience, so I figured it was worth a review.
The Pattern
The Violette Top is a free pattern by Gold & Skye. To get it, you have to sign up for their newsletter, but they've only sent me one email in the past month. I therefore don't think that they'll spam you. I really appreciate when pattern companies offer a free pattern, as it lets you get to know their drafting and pattern writing style without having to spend money.
The design is a simple, dartless bodice made up of only two pattern pieces and finished with bias binding around the edges. This makes it an ideal sew for newbies, though attaching the bias binding might be a bit fiddly for some. I chose to use a different construction method, given that the fabric I chose was too thin to wear unlined. I'm not too sure of the fibre content of the outer fabric, it was originally a scarf given to me when a friend was having a clear out. The lining is a viscose challis that I bought from Minerva years ago.
I was able to spend £0 making this project, since the pattern was free and I already had some fabric in stash. It's actually a perfect project for using up scraps as every one of the nine sizes (covering a bust of 80-120cm) can be made with less than one metre of fabric
Construction
The pattern includes 31 pages of instructions, showing that it's aimed at beginners. For more experienced sewists, there is a handy two-page 'Quick Start Guide', which is definitely appreciated.
Whilst the instructions are comprehensive, I'd say there's a few things missing that would lead to a better garment. Things like stay-stitching and adding stabalisation to high stress areas, such as where the ties are attached, are extra details that lead to more longevity. There are details that come standard in older and Big 4 patterns, but are unfortunately less popular these days.
I chose to line the top using the bagging out technique, finishing off with some top stitching around the armholes and edge of the pattern. I did have some issues with the armholes, that lead to a lot of unpicking (but I always have issues with armholes!), but I do prefer the clean finish it provides over bias binding. I also think it's more appropriate with the fabric I went for.
Fit
I was in between sizes and followed the instructions to size up. As it turns out, I should have sized down. Whilst I really like the finished look of the top, the fabric is nice and it's pretty cute, the fit just doesn't work for me.
Final Thoughts
Every project is a learning experience, even if I don't end up wearing the finished piece. I genuinely enjoyed working on this project, even with all the unpicking. Taking on a project I couldn't overthink was exactly what I needed, and I'm counting this as my second successful lining, so that’s a definite win!
